Soupiness
A while ago, I learned about The Soup Peddler from a friend of mine, Gopi. We thought we should try some of his soup sometime.
It's an unusual operation. You have to order exactly what you want by Friday the week before you want to eat. Then, you can have it delivered, chilled, to your door in several areas in Austin on certain days of the following week, or you can go pick it up at Peddler HQ in south Austin.
What you order is what you get. No more. The menu changes each week and something offered once might not be offered again for a long time, if ever.
On a Thursday in late September, we went down to Book People where the Peddler himself, aka David Ansel, was presenting and signing his new book, Soup Peddler's Slow and Difficult Soups: Recipes and Reveries. Gopi bought the book. We still hadn't actually had any soup.
The next day, Friday, we arranged soup. I'm too far north to have it delivered, and was leaving town Thursday afternoon, so I arranged to pick it up Monday. This seemed a perfect opportunity to make a Austin event of it, so we did.
The crowd that particular evening included Gopi's brother Shankar, long time friends and neighbors Fred and MJ, and Ann, a friend of recent vintage.
We had Cioppino and Soupe au Pistou Les Montilles soups. They were both excellent, served together with saltines and oyster crackers (we had both on hand), baguette for soup sopping, and red and white wines.
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Calling cioppino an Italian soup is like calling chop suey Chinese food. It's only part of the story. This seafood stew came from the immigrant-staffed galley kitchens of San Francisco's fisherman's wharves. Of course, nowadays it's served with white cloth napkins and fine wine. It's another chapter in the epic story of how low culture feeds high culture, especially in the world of culinaria.
Ingredients: fish stock, shrimp, chopped clams, cod filet, carrot, celery, mushroom, green bell pepper, onion, red pepper flake, tomato paste, savory, thyme, basil, parsley, olive oil, salt, pepper
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Les Montilles is a idyllic little mas, or farm, in the alluvial plains of Provence. It was there that I was taught this, one of the planet's great soups. Pistou is a not-so-close French relative of Italian pesto, and it adds a bright, incomparable flavor to this hearty vegetable, bean, and pasta soup. Many thanks to Annie Marbat, pictured above, for demonstrating this recipe to me, so that I could bring it to the Soupies. This soup requires no accompaniment, but a glass of pastis, three parts water, is the recommended aperitif.
Ingredients: leeks, tomato, zucchini, green beans, red beans, macaroni pasta, potato, carrot, basil, garlic, olive oil, salt
I also got porc provencale, which I thought was a soup too when ordering. But it wasn't. It was an entree of prepared pork loin with an accompanying sauce. It was good too, but not as outstanding as the soups. The Peddler mentioned at his book presentation how his business has been growing and branching out to offer complementary non-soup items recently.
Pigs and Frenchmen have long been at odds here in Austin... Monsieur Jean Pierre Isidore Dubois, the chargé d'affaires of the French Legation, started the infamous Pig War of 1841. A neighboring innkeeper (at 6th and Guadalupe) let his pigs roam freely through downtown, and their frequent visits to Dubois' stables ignited his ire and led to open fighting in the streets. We offer this dish in those pigs' honor...
I got a baguette from the Peddler too, but I don't think that I could tell the difference between that baguette and one from the local HEB bakery. It was a bit pricey too.
The soups were good enough that I'd journey to south Austin to get those same soups again, if I could.
The soups being served this week looked mighty tempting too, and I would have ordered them for myself for this coming Thursday, but I forgot to order them by Friday! Urgh! And the soups being offered this week for serving next week aren't nearly so tempting.
Update less than an hour after I originally posted: Well, whatd'yaknow. I just got email from the Peddler. He just added one more zip code for delivery...mine! "We'd like to announce a new delivery zip code... 78759. Welcome aboard. Your frequent, devoted trips down MoPac are no more. While we're honored that you'd go to such lengths (during rush hour, no less) to patronize our little business, we think it's better for all concerned if we just come up there and deliver. Your delivery day will be Friday ..."
